Surfing here in Los Angeles is a big thing, and it’s easy if you love sport to get caught in the surfing culture. And if you like it you can easily be part of it.
It’s enough to wake up earlier in the morning, to take your surfboard and your car. Yes, here in LA it is impossible to don’t have one. I don’t have one. So, I take my bike, I put my rack on it and put the surfboard in it.
There are no cars, no noise and you can slightly flow with your bike through the street. You take Santa Monica Blvd, then Broadway, until the Pier. Then you go left and pedaling with your head turned towards the sea, you arrive at the Venice Pier. Here you can start enjoy the surfing atmosphere.
All the shops here are Surfing shop, all the people here are surfer, or at least this is the impression you have now. All the cars are pick-up, and every pick-up have a boy behind it, standing on the bumper, taking the surfboard. All the people have their swimsuit, they go in couple through the beach to the water, laughing, but distractedly, because already watching the waves.
Hardly swimming to pass the first waves, you reach the line-up, then you wait. You form an informal line on the ocean, together with other surfers. Most of them don’t know each other, you don’t know nobody, but they all seem to agree to this line on the ocean and you too.
You see the water slowly swell in front of you. You turn your surfboard and start paddling. You are electrified, you are scared, you are surfing. You slide on the water to the shore. The waves are big today.
You turn around and go back to fight the waves.